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FIRST THINGS FIRST
Adhesives - Where Hair Styling, Chemical Research, And
Client Safety Collide All adhesives contain ingredients that may
cause skin irritation on certain individuals. The chemicals
themselves may be flammable and the vapors can be noxious if
inhaled. If adhesive is accidentally spilled into a client’s
eye, it is a very serious situation. This will try to give you a
road map to develop safe working habits and keep out of trouble.
Do A Proper Predisposition Skin Test:
1) Cleanse a small area 1/2”x 1/2” behind the ear with a mild
shampoo. Let dry.
2) Apply a small amount of the adhesive to be used directly to the
cleansed area. Allow time to dry. Cover with a small piece of
tape. Leave in place 24 hours covered.
3) After 24 hours, make a visual inspection of area to be certain
that no redness, irritation, burning, itching, swelling or other
abnormal reaction has occurred in or around the skin test area. If
negative reaction is found, then that particular adhesive may be
used. If a positive reaction is found, use another product -
preceded by a skin test behind the other ear.
4) If any irritation or abnormal reaction is found after continued
use of any adhesive, it is recommended that you discontinue usage
of that product immediately. If a client informs you that they
have an irritation developing, remove the application immediately
and document the situation for future applications. Let the skin
heal completely by adding an antibiotic such as Neosporin directly
to the affected area. Do not reapply a product in the area no
matter how much pressure your client puts you under. You will be
held responsible.
ADHESIVE TYPES & APPLICATIONS
There Are Four Basic Categories:
•
Cyanoacrylate (“Crazy Glue”)
• Silicones |
• Polymer
Resins
• Latex |
Each one has its
strengths and weaknesses. The challenge to their manufacturers is
to achieve the best balance of stickiness and safety. Acrylics are
the most allergic and, after a period of some popularity, are
infrequently used today. Latex can also create allergic reactions
and has the additional handicap of creating heightened skin
sensitivity with each successive application. The FDA recently
debated requiring manufacturers to post a warning on products
containing latex, but decided to postpone the decision. Silicones
have good short-term “stickability,” but tend to become less
tacky over time. Resins offer good long term “stickability.”
Application Chart:
USAGE GUIDELINES
Silicone Based Adhesives
Application: perimeter bonding. Not recommended for skin bonding.
FDA regulations forced Dow Corning to make formulation changes to
this adhesive, eliminating the freon content to bring it into
compliance with new government requirements. As a result, the
bonding power of the revised formulation is not as strong as it
used to be. Silicone based adhesives come in two different
application methods. One is packaged in a tube. The other comes in
a bottle or jar. They both contain the same material. The contents
of the jar can be placed into a high quality plastic applicator
with a twist top to be more efficient.
Track bonding option #1 (two-part silicone bond) 1)
Prepare the client track area by cutting the hair 1/8” to 1/4”
long by 1” wide. Skin prep may be applied to the skin in the
track area as extra protection. 2) Apply a thin layer of silicone
based adhesive with a brush as thinly and evenly as possible on
both the scalp and on the tape on the polyurethane perimeter of
the system using a back and forth motion. In the past, cloth tape
has been the tape of preference with a silicone bond producing a
bonding time of 4-6 weeks. 3) Allow both parts to dry to tacky 3-5
minutes and press firmly together (a cool dryer can be used to
speed up the curing time). 4) Continue styling as usual without
excessive water. 5) For best results, keep away from water for 8
hours.
Track bonding option #2 (one part silicone bond) 1) Apply a
thin layer of silicone-based adhesive with a brush or directly to
the prepared scalp area as discussed above. Let dry to tacky 3-5
minutes (or use a cool dryer to speed up the curing time). 2)
Prepare the polyurethane perimeter with a tape of your choice. Do
not apply adhesive. Press the two parts together firmly. 3) Finish
styling as usual without excessive water. 4) For best results keep
away from water for 8 hours. Solvent for a soft bond is a citrus
oil based remover. When re-applying your system, be sure to
thoroughly cleanse the track area with a clarifying shampoo so it
is squeaky clean. Any remaining oil left on the scalp will affect
your new bond. If you choose to re-use your brushes, be sure to
strip and clean them thoroughly with a strong solvent. Any oil
remaining will contaminate the bottle when dipped back into the
bottle.
Acrylic Bonds
Application: perimeter bonding only, No lace fronts, or skin
bonds. 1) Apply the tape of choice to the polyurethane perimeter
on the base of the system. 2) (Working quickly) following
manufacturer’s directions, apply a fine bead of the adhesive in
small circles on the tape, being careful not to get it too close
to the edge of the system or into the system hair. 3) Immediately
position the hair system directly on the prepared scalp area. 4)
Continue to press firmly around the perimeter while the bond cures
to the hair. 5) This adhesive works best if kept away from water
for 8 hours. Otherwise it may crystallize. THERE IS NO SOLVENT FOR
AN ACRYLIC HARD BOND! USE EXTREME CAUTION! NEVER USE AN ACRYLIC
BOND DIRECTLY ON THE SCALP. Immediate removal is very
difficult. If you need to make an emergency removal of an acrylic
bond, do so by separating the tape from the perimeter of the
system, removing the system which will leave the tape and the
acrylic material on the scalp. Continue working the tape and
acrylic adhesive with an oil based remover until it gives way. Do
this very cautiously as it can cause severe scalp irritation! Upon
removal, re-evaluate the scalp condition. Document the removal
situation.
Resin Based Bonds
Application: perimeter, lace fronts, and skin bonds. For a skin
bond 1) Begin by cleaning the hair system using no conditioner. 2)
Clean the scalp thoroughly using no conditioner and cut the
application area as short as possible. 3) Dry the system and scalp
thoroughly. 4) Pour a small amount of resin based adhesive into a
small resealable plastic container. 5) Using the disposable
applicator brush or makeup sponge, apply the adhesive material to
the polyurethane areas on the unit (do not use tapes) and the
client's scalp area. Work the brush or sponge applying a thin
continuous layer onto each surface. 6) After allowing both to dry
separately for a minimum of 5-7 minutes, carefully position the
hair system and press firmly into place. Slight adjustments may be
made if needed. 7) Wait 5-7 minutes while pressing firmly in
place. 8) Client should avoid wetting hair for 24 hours. Use of
oily conditioners and creme rinses will reduce the life of the
bond. Normal duration of bond will be 3-4 weeks. 9) To remove the
bonding material use the manufacturers recommended solvent. Skin
bonding can be done with all mesh bases using a resin based
material. If you choose to apply this material to the mesh be
careful not to push it up into the root area of the system. Use
the tips of a comb or brush to put the system in place. The
duration of the bond will be less than that of the polyurethane
bases.
ADHESIVES
Latex Based Bonds
Applications, perimeter, lace front, skin. The latex based bonding
comes with many different labels and strengths. Repackaging has
made it difficult to keep up with all the names. If it is white in
color, it's latex based. 1) Prepare the client by cleansing the
scalp thoroughly with a clarifying shampoo. Some distributors
recommend a mud pack to the scalp for clarifying. Isopropyl
alcohol is sometimes recommended also. Do not use conditioners or
creme rinses in any way. 2) Shave the areas of the scalp where the
adhesive will be applied within the size of the unit. 3) Apply one
coat of the latex material to the scalp area as thinly as possible
with a make up sponge. Wait until it turns clear and apply a
second coat. Again, wait until it turns clear. The use of a cool
dryer will speed up this process. 4) When both surfaces have dried
completely to a clear consistency, place them together being
careful with the alignment. Repositioning is difficult, so take
your time. 5) Removal is possible using citrus based oil solvents
sold by the same distributors. 6) Skin bonding can be done with an
all mesh base. When placing the system on the client use the tips
of a comb or brush, not your fingers. If you choose to apply the
latex to the mesh be careful not to get it into the root area of
the system. The duration of the bond will be less than that of
polyurethane.
ATTACHMENT LEXICON
Clips
Metal clips, Silicone coated clips, Guillotine clips, etc. A
temporary method of securing a system to the client's hair. This
allows a client to remove the system at their convenience.
Unfortunately it is also the most insecure. Comfort is an issue as
the clips will pull the hair unevenly. Clips can also cause
traction alopecia since they frequently use the same hair over and
over, permanently damaging the hair in that area.
Foundations
Cable, Weave, or Braiding, etc. These are all methods of
attachment for hair extensions and hair replacements. This
technique twists or braids the client’s own growth hair below
the thinning area to create a base or anchor to which the
perimeter of a hair system can be sewn or attached. This technique
originated in the ethnic market back in the 60's for adding hair
extensions to the client’s own hair. "Hair Club For
Men" popularized this procedure for the male Caucasian client
in the 70's, giving men "permanent" hair. The attachment
typically lasted 4-6 weeks. No adhesives were involved. One of the
biggest problems with this method is traction alopecia. As a
result of over-directing the follicle in the same place it can
cause the affected hair to eventually fall out permanently.
Discomfort was also a frequent problem and clients were sometimes
advised to use a silk pillow case to lessen the friction of the
hair pulling. Depending on the skill of the technician, a
perceptible bump or ridge around the edge was sometimes a concern
also.
Fusion
Micro Points, Bonding Rings, Links etc.-
All of these methods fall into a version of a twist of some sort
secured off the scalp either by a drop of acrylic adhesive or
invisible thread. They are placed around the perimeter of the
system about every 3 inches, leaving a gap between each attachment
point. The comfort for the client is better than the so called
weaves because these methods allow some flexibility around the
perimeter of the system. The attachments can be moved slightly
every time the client needs to be tightened, as to not stress out
the same hair each time.
Perimeter Bonding
A method started back in the mid 70's and popularized by Hair Club
For Men. Gives a high level of security and is by far the most
comfortable attachment method. An adhesive is used to secure a
hair system to the client's existing growth hair. This method
requires a track area, usually 1" wide encircling the
perimeter of the system. Growth hair in the track area is
typically trimmed down to 1/4" to 1/8". Durability is
usually 4-6 weeks, depending on the client and their lifestyle.
Skin Bonding
A method by which an adhesive covers the entire hair loss area
front to back and side to side. Hair in the thinning area is
almost completely removed by either shaving or clipping it very
short. A hair replacement system made of solid polyurethane or all
mesh can then be applied. This method is even more secure,
undetectable and comfortable for the client. This system has even
less chance of moving or flexing since it becomes one with the
client as a second skin. This method requires special adhesives
and additional training. Almost all the manufacturers have
specialty marketing programs to go along with this concept and
method. A documented skin test must be performed before an
application regardless of previous applications to guarantee your
client not having a reaction to the chosen bonding material. A
release form should be signed and dated by each client to confirm
you are operating with the best of care and intentions. Some
clients are allergic or hypersensitive to certain substances.
Cautionary statements and instructions essential to safe use must
be followed at all times, with no exceptions.
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